How to find the proper
slope and depth for your
French drain system

How to find the slope for a French drain.
How deep to dig your drainage system.

Additional Instructions

Please first read Steps 1 to 4,
beginning with: Lawn and Garden Drainage Guide

This page will provide information on:

Proper slope of the soil around your home
Ideas for correctingthe slope underground
Correcting downspout drainage problems

Lawn and Garden
Drainage Guide

Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Instructions
Lawn Yard and Garden tools
trenching for a French drain
Now you are almost ready to do some digging, trenching, and pipe laying. But first
you need to use your stakes and strings to figure out how deep you need to dig. To
do this you will also need a line level, a little level available at any hardware store that
hangs on your string.

All of your drain pipe (with one exception) must slope slightly downhill. Usually 1/8”
per foot is plenty for drainage, this is the same as the commonly recommended 1%
slope. Note that I said the drain pipe must be sloped rather than the French drain.
The reason for this is that the drain pipe is used to transport rain water to drier areas
or eventually to an outlet, while the French drain is used to collect excess water from
some areas and then disperse it into the subsoil in others. So it is not critical that the
French drain trench bottom be perfectly sloped, it’s great if you can manage it, but
don’t get too frustrated over it. The drainage pipe (or drain tile as some call it) will lay
on a bed of gravel in the bottom of the trench and it is very easy to move this gravel
around to properly slope the drain pipe.

So back to the stakes and strings. Starting at the most uphill point of your planned
drainage system pound in a stake and tie off the string 6” above the ground. (Point J
in the example below)

Stretch this string over to the stake at the next turn in your lawn drainage system.
(Note that you must ignore any short side branching pipes for now, see the example
below).

With the string stretched along the first pipe run, hang the line level on the string, pull
the string tight, and move the string up or down against this stake until the string is
level. Mark this spot on the stake with a pencil or Sharpie. Keep the string pulled tight
and tie it at the mark.

In most cases your mark will be more than 6” from ground level. If not, continue on
anyways and it will probably work itself out. If you can’t achieve a level string because
the ground gets in the way then go back to the starting point and reposition the string
tie off point to 12” above ground level, then repeat the operation above.

Now you have a tight string that tells you the level position of your first pipe run. (J-K)
Next you will need a calculator and a tape measure. Measure the length of your
string from stake to stake and round it to the nearest foot. On the example below this
is 14 feet. Now divide the number by 8 to learn how much deeper one end of the pipe
must be to achieve a slope of 1/8” per foot. 14 divided by 8 is 1.75 inches or 1-
3/4inches.
Make a new mark on the second stake this distance below the mark you recently
made to show level. Now tie a new string at this new mark and stretch it to the next
turn in your drain system, just like we did above. Make a mark where the string is
level, like above, and tie the string at this mark.

Here we must deal with the one exception to sloping the pipe that I mentioned in the
2nd paragraph. On the example, the section of pipe K-L must be installed level (no
slope) because it is a connector for two separate drain tiles. Anytime you end up with
a piping system that looks like a dinner fork with 2 or more “tines” connected to a
“handle” you should leave the cross pipe, the connector of the tines and handle,
level.

Tie a new string at the level mark and stretch it to the next stake in the system and
mark the level position. Again tie the strings off at level, measure the lengths, divide
by 8 and mark the slope depths below the level mark. On our example shown below
that means L-M is sloped 15/8 = 1-7/8 inches.

Continue on repeating this procedure until you have reached the final end point of
your drainage system, usually at the street or a ditch where the end of the drain pipe
will be exposed.

By stretching these strings and marking the slope depths on your strings you have
figured out how deep your drainage pipe must be, and how deep you must dig. Go to
your final stake (at ditch, stream, or street) and measure up from the place where
you want the bottom of your drain pipe to set up to the slope depth mark – write this
number down. When draining into stream or ditch bank this is usually 6” below the
neighboring ground level, when draining to the street this is either the top of the curb
for yards with a steep slope near the curb or the bottom of the curb for gently sloped
yards (cutting through the curb will be necessary here, and hard). In the example
below this distance is 60 inches (another reason to use long stakes).

This measured distance (60” in the example) tells you the distance form the bottom
of the French drain to the lower string at each stake. If you subtract the distance from
the ground to the lower string at each stake you can find the distance you must dig at
each stake (24”, 33”, and 54” in our example).
Remember that a slope of 1/8” per foot is a minimum. In some cases you will want to
increase the slope to avoid having to dig very deep French drains. In our example the
end of drainage system close to the house is 54” deep and we would like it to be
shallower. If we want to dig only 20” deep near the house then move the upper string
higher on the stake the difference between the original depth and the desired depth
(54”-20”=34”). Since the string was originally 6” off the ground it will now be 6”+34”=40”
off the ground. Then when you measure down 60” from the string at the stake you get
a trench depth of the desired 20 inches.

Now go back to the yard and find the slopes for the remaining side branches. Be aware
the side branches will slope upward to the new points so that they drain into the main
drainage pipe. In our example this means that branch M-P will be 1-1/8” higher at P,
branch L-Q will be level just like L-K because it is a connector pipe, and Q-R will be a
very steep sloping run just like J-K to achieve a 20” trench depth at the house.

Once the French drain trenches and the drywells are dug, then the drywell fabric tubes
are installed, the permeable landscape fabric is laid in the trench, and at least 2” of
gravel is placed over the fabric (as described in
French Drain Installation). This gravel
can then easily be rearranged to obtain the proper slope for the rigid drainage pipe to
be set in place (read here to learn
why not to use flexible corrugated plastic pipe). Also
you will want to read the page on
how to select the proper fittings to allow your
drainage system to be cleaned with common Roto-Rooter type equipment.
Ready to start
digging?

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